It’s an early Sunday morning, and it’s raining. I peer outside the hotel and discover a bustling activity unfolding on the streets below. I see many people traveling with carts, positioning themselves at specific points. I wonder what on earth is happening here.
I quickly learn that every Sunday and public holiday marks Ciclovía Day in Bogotá. On these days, over 120 kilometers of the capital’s roads are closed to cars from 7:00 AM to 2:00 PM. These are the important north-south and east-west arteries, thoughtfully marked with numerous routes for circuits.
The clouds begin to break, the sky turns bright blue, and the air becomes warm. We head to Café Tostao in Parque de la Independencia, where Avenida El Dorado crosses Carrera 7. Already, hundreds, if not thousands, of cyclists, skaters, and runners fill the streets. The roads are lined with stalls selling freshly squeezed juices and traditional food: arepas, salchichas, grilled corn buñuelos, and, of course, we spot the iconic Willy Jeeps with their coffee delights. It’s said that over 1.5 million people regularly attend these events.
A City Transformed into a Marketplace
Through Carrera Séptima, we make our way towards the city center. The entire city has transformed into an unimaginable flea market. Even on the side streets, every square meter is occupied. We first visit the Mercado De Las Pulgas de San Alejo, located in a square directly opposite the Mambo Museum. This is a Sunday market featuring vendors of antiques, jewelry, home accessories, clothing, records, and toys.
We continue walking amidst the street vendors, the throng of people, and the cyclists. Here and there, I glimpse the fascinating array of goods on offer. You can find almost anything imaginable here, or many things you wouldn’t expect to stumble upon. I’m familiar with flea markets in many major European cities, but I have never experienced anything quite like this. I can’t help but wonder where all the people come from, those who are offering goods or simply walking through the streets. I see many vendors and families sitting directly on the ground, simply hoping to earn a few pesos to buy some food. This is saddening and clearly illustrates the stark contrasts within this city.
I was told that Sunday is a typical day for Bogotanos to head to the Center, stroll through the city, or take advantage of free museum entry and enjoy a meal with family at a restaurant. Indeed, finding a free seat at a restaurant proved to be a challenge.
The Rhythms of Bogotá
Street musicians, entertainers, and artists perform on almost every corner, in every plaza. All styles are represented, from hip-hop to salsa dancing. The Latin American rhythm immediately gets into your blood.
As the day progresses, the city becomes increasingly crowded. As dusk begins to fall, the situation turns quite chaotic. We decide to head back. In Parque de la Independencia, I spot an elderly couple. They are dancing, alone and utterly lost, to the tango emanating from an old speaker. They are deep in thought, detached from all the city’s hustle and bustle. In that moment, I feel their passion, their melancholy, and their pain.
